18.8.12
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mtx subs in a 03 subaru forester
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Spring Break Nationals 2011 Part 1 - Sbn 2011 Exo Contralto - Johnathan Price
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Cheap ATREND 10SME 10-Inch B Box Series Single Shallow Mount Sealed Enclosure for $39.98 ATREND
ATREND 10SME 10-Inch B Box Series Single Shallow Mount Sealed Enclosure Review
Technical Details
- Single shallow mount sealed
- MDF construction
- Pioneer, JL Audio & Clarion specific
- Completely carpeted enclosure
- .75" speaker baffles
ATREND 10SME 10-Inch B Box Series Single Shallow Mount Sealed Enclosure Overview
Single Shallow Mount Sealed; MDF Construction; Pioneer, Jl Audio & Clarion Specific; Completely Carpeted Enclosure ; .75" Speaker Baffles; Screwed Down Silver Terminal Cup; Completely Glued & Braced; 10"

11.8.12
Day 3 - Sixdogs1 and Safaribass...."Operation Shake the World" - 4 12" Subwoofers
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6 Sundown SAZ-3500D amps 6 Fi BTL 15'' subwoofers Slamology 2011 ! DR. Boom !
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What does a subwoofer do?
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Analyzing Goldwood Speaker Box w/ Bass Box Pro 6
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(Q & A) 4 15 inch Subs - Mono Amps, Ground Loops, Gains, Loud Mids & Highs / Woofers Alternators
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Quick Car Audio BASS Demo - 18" AA Mayhem SPL Subwoofer w/ Diablo Amp - My Ascendant Subs Best Songs
28.6.12
BUMPIN' PUMPKIN SPEAKER BOX - 8" WOOFER - (HOW IT WAS MADE)
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23.6.12
angrygirlfriend21's new box for mtx 9500
20.6.12
12 RE MT shaking the car apart!
19.6.12
The Room Of Doom w/ 12 MMATTS 15" Subs SLAMMIN CRAZY LOW BASS | 12hz Sine Wave
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10.6.12
Build a Cheap Cardboard Subwoofer! - SYSTM
9.6.12
Jeep Cherokee 2 12" Rockford Fosgate R1 subwoofers playing EXO
6.6.12
Kicker CVR 12's in a ported box on an HiFonics HFi 1000.1D at 2 OHMS
4.6.12
Cheap Atrend A202-12Cp Atrend Series 12-Inch Dual Up-Fire Enclosures for Dodge Ram Quad Cab 2002 and Up for $79.00 Atrend
Atrend A202-12Cp Atrend Series 12-Inch Dual Up-Fire Enclosures for Dodge Ram Quad Cab 2002 and Up Review
Technical Details
- Fits 2002 and Up Dodge Ram Quad Cab
- MDF Construction
- Completely Carpeted Enclosure With Rounded Edges
- 0.75-inch Speaker Baffles
- Custom Built for Under Seat Application
Atrend A202-12Cp Atrend Series 12-Inch Dual Up-Fire Enclosures for Dodge Ram Quad Cab 2002 and Up Overview
Atrend A202-12CP dual up-fire enclosures for dodge RAM QUAD CAB 2002 & up (12")

2.6.12
Painting MDF Subwoofer Boxes w/ Gloss Paint & DaveTheBoxGuy Car Audio Designs - EXO's BIG BASS Wall
28.5.12
walmart vr3 20 dollar cheap subwoffer car audio
27.5.12
2 15" Kicker L7 Movin air in a sealed box
20.5.12
RAM Designs: Dubstep + Bandpass Box Design DC Audio 18's
19.5.12
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17.5.12
Cheap Sony XS-GTX121LS 30cm Loaded Enclosure Series Subwoofer with subwoofer box for $88.93 Sony
Sony XS-GTX121LS 30cm Loaded Enclosure Series Subwoofer with subwoofer box Review
Sony XS-GTX121LS 30cm Loaded Enclosure Series Subwoofer with subwoofer box Overview
Sony XS-GTX121LS 30cm Loaded Enclosure Series Subwoofer with subwoofer box

15.5.12
JL Audio W3 Car Subwoofer Review
13.5.12
Slammin Bass At Wal-Mart w/ EXO's 2 Walled Off Soundstream XXX 18 inch Subwoofers & DC Power 270XP
12.5.12
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1.4.12
How to Install Car Audio Wires and Cables
How to install your wiring, and make it a.) Invisible, or b.) Nice to look at:
Alrightee! So, you're off to installing all of the big-time components to your stereo system. I know you really really really want to skip the boring parts (like running wires), and go straight to installing the components, and turning on your system. Nnnnnno!
Like I have said countless times before, we're here to do a QUALITY stereo install. Not some janky, lame-o quickie job. We're installing a stereo for the life of your vehicle, and as such, we spend a little extra time to do things properly. Sooooo, when it comes to wiring, we need to think about how we want to do things first.
To re-cap. Do you know what components you'll be installing? Even if you don't have all of the components now, hopefully you know what your plans are. This allows you to run all of the wires, so when you finally get your components, you can just mount them, and hook up the wires, and you're ready to rock.
Don't be stupid like most people, and think of components first, THEN think about how to install them. Think of how to install components, get the install parts, THEN install the components. DUH!!! By the way, you'll save time and money with this approach.
Was that a long enough introduction? OK, let's get into what you should know about wiring!
First, buy all of the wiring that you think you'll need, and some extra just for safety. Don't worry, your money won't be wasted!
Next, disassemble your vehicle in the places where the wiring will be run. When I say disassemble, I mean it! Pull out seats, carpet, panels, everything! Trust me, this will make running wires easier and safer.
If you plan to use any sort of sound insulation or damping material, now is the time to lay it. If you don't plan on using it, why not? This will make your system sound better by lowering noise, and by eliminating vibrations. Just do it!
Now, you get to run wires. Run them everywhere they'll be needed. Run power wires, RCA wires, speaker wires, interface wires, remote turn on wires. EVERYTHING.
Now that they're laid out how you want and need them, it's time to secure them. Vehicle manufacturers use ties everywhere to keep wires organized and out of the way. Now it's your turn! Many many many people skip this step, and I don't think it's too smart.
Why?
Because when wires are subjected to vibrations, stress, weather, and other things that are constantly present in vehicles, they tend to wear away. When wires wear away, you get...
Short circuits!
Vehicle fires!
Ruined components!
Don't risk it, just secure your wires!
If you have amp racks or other items that your wiring will go through, it's time to mount those items, and secure the wiring to them.
OK, OK. Those are the basic steps you'll go through to run wires. But, how do you actually do it? Let's break it down:
1.) Measure distances between where components will be mounted, and what they connect to. For example, measure from the battery to where you'll mount your amp. Also, don't be stupid. Buy a few extra feet at each end, so you'll have room for error. Also, you'll want to make sure none of the wires are stretched. You want to have some slack at each end. This will make your life much easier.
Other distances to measure:
Head unit to amp
Amp to speakers
Head unit to cd/dvd changer, mp3 player, navigation system, etc.
Also, before you buy your wires, be sure you know what will work best with your planned components. If you're planning to install a 500 watt amp, and you know that amp will be 17' from the battery, use a chart to figure out what wire gauge to use. People like to get all loco in the cabeza with power wire, and spend $5 a foot on 0 gauge wire. WHY??? If you don't need it, don't buy it!
2.) OK, so you have all of your wiring in hand, and ready to go. Now is the time to take apart parts of your vehicle. First, figure out where your wires will be run. I usually run my power wire on the same side of the vehicle as the battery. I also usually run my RCA cables down the center of the vehicle. Knowing this information will tell you where you need to remove parts from your vehicle. If you're not going to be running wires in a certain part of your vehicle, then it won't be necessary to take anything apart. UNLESS!! UNLESS!!! UNLESS!!!! You plan to put some sound damping material down. I always recommend this!
So, here we go. Time for the fun part. First things first. Disconnect the ground (aka negative) wire from the battery.
Pull up panels! I highly recommend some sort of panel removal tool to remove panels. This will help protect your panels from breaking.
3.) Time to run wires!
First, we'll run the power cable: Find a hole in the firewall of your vehicle. If you can't find a hole, you might be able to squeeze a power cable through the far corner of your hood, by the windshield and into your vehicle that way. If you can't do that, then you'll have to drill. Every car is different, but one piece of advice is always true: Plan ahead, and be careful! Inspect where you plan to drill the hole, and be sure you won't damage anything in the process. Take it slow, or if you're feeling really nervous, drive your vehicle to a stereo shop, and have them run your power wire through the firewall. Next, run the cable wherever it will fit nicely, and not be visible once you put the carpet back in place. Run it all the way to your trunk (or wherever you plan to have your amp or distribution blocks mounted). Next, secure the cable. Use zip ties, or glue, or even velcro to make sure your power cable stays where it should. Be sure it is not near any moving parts, or rubbing on anything that will strip the insulation. Also, be sure it will not get in the way of anything once you re-install all of the panels, carpet, etc.
Next, let's run your RCA cable(s), interface cables and Remote turn on wire. Again, be sure the negative cable is disconnected from the battery. Disassemble any and all of the panels surrounding your head unit. Pull your head unit out. Next, pull up all of the panels, consoles and carpet around where you'll be running your RCA cable and interface cable. Connect the remote turn-on wire to your head unit's wiring harness. If you are planning to connect more than one or two devices to your head unit's remote turn-on, you will want to look into installing a relay. Next, run the RCA cables, interface cable and remote turn-on. All of the stuff I said earlier about power cables is also true of RCA and interface cables. Be sure your cable is not near any moving parts, it is not rubbing against anything that will strip the insulation, and it is mounted in such a way that it will not show once the panels and carpet are put back in place. Connect the RCA cables to the pre-outs on your head unit, and be sure you know which RCA cable goes to which channel on your amp. Many RCA cables use color-coding, so it shouldn't be too difficult. Plug in your interface cable. Now, re-install your head unit. Make sure everything is all hooked up before you put everything back together!!
OK, last step. Let's run speaker wire! This is exactly like running all of the other wires above. Pull up the panels. Run the wires. Be mindful of where you plan to run them. Secure them. Make sure you have a few extra feet at each end of the speaker cable. I know this sounds stupid, but trust me. It's more stupid to spend all of this time running wire only to discover that it's too short. Then, you have to pull the wire up, throw it away, then run it all over again. DUMB!
4.) Secure wires!
Now that your wires are run, it's time to secure them. There are many ways to secure wires, and not all of them will work at all times. In fact, you'll probably need to use a variety of methods to secure your wires throughout your vehicle. Soooooo....
1.) Secure wires with zip ties to other bundles of wires.
2.) Secure wires with zip ties to small holes (or create small holes)
3.) Use glue to secure zip ties to your vehicle, then secure the wires with them.
4.) Run wires behind objects that they can be secured to.
5.) Use velcro to secure wires
5.) Secure wires to mounting locations (amp racks, speaker pods, etc)
If you have any sort of custom enclosure or rack for your stereo components, you'll want to find a way to secure your wires to the rack or enclosure. If these racks or enclosures are designed to be seen, you might want to take some time making the wires visible, and looking good.
In the example of amp racks, you can drill holes where all of the electrical connections go into the amp. Run the wires through these holes, and to your amp. This trick will make your wires look nice and clean, and keep your wires organized.
For speaker enclosures, there are a variety of things you can do to make the wires look good. For plexiglass subwoofer enclosures, people often choose wire that looks good. In addition, top installers will choose wire hardware (terminals) that are of high quality, and look good. If you want your enclosure to be removable, you can install speaker terminals on the outside of the enclosure, or even install a custom quick-release wiring harness.
Enjoy!
-Honest AEB
26.3.12
How To Make A Logitech Sub A Hard Hitting Home Theatre Sub!
23.3.12
JL Audio 13W7 Subwoofer in Stainless Steel Tube
22.3.12
Cheap Infinity Reference 1262w 12-Inch 1200-watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Dual Voice Coil) for $62.07 Infinity
Infinity Reference 1262w 12-Inch 1200-watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Dual Voice Coil) Review
Technical Details
- 12-inch dual voice coil subwoofer with 1200 Watts peak power handling
- High-efficiency polypropylene woofer cone with large-roll rubber surrounds ensure efficient, clean bass
- Vented polepieces provides additional cooling to increase power handling
- Dual voice coil gives you more wiring options and allows you to drive the sub without bridging
- One-year warranty
Infinity Reference 1262w 12-Inch 1200-watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Dual Voice Coil) Overview
Looking for a more moving audio experience? Take Infinity car audio for a ride. Innovative materials and breakthrough engineering have always put Infinity products out in front of the competition’s. So expect extreme output from these speakers, but be prepared for accuracy and detail that may surprise you. Infinity Reference Series loudspeakers continue to be the top-selling premium speakers in the world. For instance, the 6-1/2-inch Reference coaxial model has been the number-one-selling car audio multielement speaker for five years straight. With proprietary features such as patent-pending Plus One cones, true 4-ohm topology, UniPivot edge-driven tweeters and the industry-leading Intermount III and I-Mount mounting systems, as well as the Starfish tweeter-mounting adapter, Reference Series speakers leave the competition scrambling to keep up.

20.3.12
Rockford Fosgate Prime
17.3.12
Great Price Pyle PLSQBS102 for $137.66 Pyle PLSQBS102 Dual 10'' 1000 Watts Subwoofer Enclosure
Pyle PLSQBS102 Dual 10'' 1000 Watts Subwoofer Enclosure Review
Technical Details
- Dual Square 10'' High Power Subwoofer System - 1000 Watts Max Power
- 3'' Aluminum Voice Coil - Dimension: 14''H x 28''w x 14''D
- 4 Ohm Subwoofer
- PP Cone With Large Rubber Edge
- Rear Vent Design
Pyle PLSQBS102 Dual 10'' 1000 Watts Subwoofer Enclosure Overview
Pyle Red Label speakers don’t just sound great – they also look stunning! This subwoofer enclosure houses two square 10” high-power subwoofers pushing 1000 watts max. They’re powered by a 3” aluminum voice coil and PP cone with large rubber edge – so your sound is low and booming but distortion-free. The rear vent design boosts sub-bass frequencies for a pounding response. This subwoofer will blow you away!

15.3.12
homemade subwoofer and enclosure
13.3.12
Dayton Audio Subwoofer Kit Assembly How-to
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Kicker 2010 CVX (CompVX) Subwoofer at CES 2010
10.3.12
Kenwood KFC-W3012 and Kenwood KAC-9104D
7.3.12
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5.3.12
Princecraft Versailles 29 - Example of Pontoon Boat Excellence
The magnificent Versailles 29 LP-SS I/O by Princecraft is all about comfort and on the water lifestyle. It will be the envy of your fellow skippers with their numerous extras, top-notch performance, and a plush finish. Consider to have a great time while you're on board with 2009 Versailles 29. From bow to stern this pontoon boat will give you the luxury that you never experienced while on the water. With seating for up to 10 people, enjoy also rooms fitted for any kind of activities and entertainment for your family and friends.
CONSTRUCTION FEATURES
- 5052-H36 marine grade aluminum alloy
- NMMA & Canadian Coast Guard certified
- Sealed pontoon bulkheads w/ top mounted air plug (25")
- Triple pontoon w/ under deck spray shield
- Full length extruded aluminum pontoon keels
- Full length pontoon skirting
- 2 ½" heavy-duty extruded Z-aluminum cross channels
- 1 1/4" anodized aluminum rails
- Pressure-treated wood deck (3/4") covered w/ marine grade carpet (28 oz.)
- Reinforced stainless steel bow eye
- Stainless steel recessed cleats (4)
- Integrated full-width rear swim platform w/ three-step telescoping boarding ladder
HELM
- Large fiberglass helm console w/ cooler and galley unit (sink, faucet and portable water tank)
- Power steering (I/O)
- Sport steering wheel
- Woodgrain dash panel w/ lighted switches
- Tilt steering mechanism w/ sport steering wheel
- 200-watt Clarion M475 AM/FM/CD with MP3, iPod and SAT Radio Ready
- 4 waterproof speakers ( 6 ½" )
- Electric horn
- 12V receptacle
- Smoked windscreen
INSTRUMENTATION
- Instrumentation (5 gauges)
- Mercury SmartCraft System Tachometer (11 functions)
- Mercury SmartCraft System Speedometer (11 functions)
- Voltmeter, trim and fuel gauges
FURNITURE
- Ultra plush and heavy weight upholstery
- Roto-Cast furniture bases and backs
- 2 luxury reclining seats in the bow area
- Luxury reclining captain's chair w/ slide & swivel
- 3 chaise lounges
- Storage in chaise lounge's reclining section
- 2 storage pouches
- Storage under all lounges
- Rear padded sun deck
- Pedestal mount stern removable snack table w/ drink holders
TOPS
- Color coordinated deluxe convertible buggy bimini top
- Quick release bimini top latches and traveling struts
- Canvas camper enclosure & mooring cover snap fasteners
OTHER FEATURES
- Large pop-up privacy enclosure
- Cup holders
- Molded corner light housings
- Halogen docking lights
- Navigation lights
- Floor mood lighting
- Push on/off console courtesy light
- Transducer & speedo pick-up mounting bracket
- 1 battery tray
- Built-in fuel system w/ in-dash gauge
- Side gates w/ lift and lock hinges (24")
- Walk-thru rear gate w/ lift and lock hinge
- Finger pinch guard
- Gate holder
The Versailles 29 LP-SS I/O by Princecraft will be the boat of your dreams and total enjoyment on the water. Get on the water with a dependable boat at a great price.
2.3.12
Great Price Absolute VEGD12 for $55.98 Absolute USA VEGD12 Dual 12-Inch Slot Ported Subwoofer Enclosure, 3/4-Inch MDF
Absolute USA VEGD12 Dual 12-Inch Slot Ported Subwoofer Enclosure, 3/4-Inch MDF Review
Technical Details
- Dual 12" Slot Ported Subwoofer Enclosure, 3/4" MDF
- lot Ported Subwoofer Enclosure
- 3/4" MDF
Absolute USA VEGD12 Dual 12-Inch Slot Ported Subwoofer Enclosure, 3/4-Inch MDF Overview
Absolute VEGD12 Dual 12" Slot Ported Subwoofer Enclosure, 3/4" MDF

29.2.12
Check Out Pioneer TS-SWX251 10" Flat Subwoofer with Enclosure 800 Watts
Pioneer TS-SWX251 10" Flat Subwoofer with Enclosure 800 Watts Review
Technical Details
- 10-inch flat subwoofer with enclosure designed for compact spaces
- 800 watts peak power handling (200 watts nominal); 4 ohm impedance; 89 dB sensitivity
- Lays flat in truck or SUV to stack items on top or stands upright behind some seats
- Custom box is optimized for strong bass regardless of position
- 20 Hz to 114 Hz frequency range
Pioneer TS-SWX251 10" Flat Subwoofer with Enclosure 800 Watts Overview
Pioneer TS-SWX251 10" flat subwoofer with enclosure designed for compact spaces, such as behind a pick-up seat, in an SUV or minivan cargo area or under rear seats. Lay flat design. Maximum power handling 800 watts.

24.2.12
Best Absolute USA DSS15 Dual 15-Inch, 3/4-Inch MDF Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure with Absolute USA Logo for $55.98 Absolute
Absolute USA DSS15 Dual 15-Inch, 3/4-Inch MDF Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure with Absolute USA Logo Review
Technical Details
- Dual 15", 3/4" MDF Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure with Absolute Logo
- Dual 15" 3/4 MDF
Absolute USA DSS15 Dual 15-Inch, 3/4-Inch MDF Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure with Absolute USA Logo Overview
Absolute DSS15 Dual 15", 3/4" MDF Sealed Subwoofer Enclosure with Absolute Logo

21.2.12
How to Make an Outdoor TV Enclosure For an LCD TV
We all know that times are tight, so if you are planning on treating yourself and you want to install an LCD television in your garden, or even to put digital signage in outside your store, we will try to guide you through the mine field.
The first thing you need to do is establish were the television is to be located, is this on a wall, or suspended from a ceiling or on a pedestal stand?
Most enclosures come with integral mounting lugs, however look out for the enclosures that have a rear bracket that bolts straight into the back of the enclosure. Why, I hear you ask, well quite simply, the threaded holes in the rear of the enclosure once it's bolted and in position will actually allow water to tract through the thread on each hole and over a period of time, water will enter the enclosure and cause condensation inside the unit, causing the display to fail.
Then you need to see what size of display you can afford, this will dictate everything. Once you have decided upon the size of the TV, you then need to think of the finish of the enclosure, is going to be timber or steel?
Then you need to think about how you are going to get the cables inside the enclosure, whilst maintaining a waterproof seal, however this depend upon the average temperature were you are and in this changing world, the climate is extremely changeable.
Then you need to think about cooling, is this going to be a simple unit, so when you open the front doors to view the television, the air circulates around the TV, this is ideal is countries such as the USA, when the temperature is dry, rather than wet.
If it is going to be a steel unit, this is a totally different ball game and we will look at this some other time.
19.2.12
MDF speaker rings mocked up - tahoe system rebuild 33.5
17.2.12
Funniest kid in the world videos - PandoraSubwooferBox.com
15.2.12
3 Orion Hcca 12 inch subwoofer custom box build!!
14.2.12
IP65 and IP54 - Protecting Your Electrical Equipment From Dust, Debris and Liquid
Computers, monitors and other electrical equipment are now just as commonplace in industry and manufacturing as they are in the office or home. Unfortunately however the demands on electrical equipment such as computers are completely different in industrial environments than those placed on the office PC.
Industrial environments tend to be dirty and grimy and contain plenty of contaminants that are harmful to sensitive electronics including water and dust.
Fortunately a European IP (Ingress Protection) system for classifying the degrees of protection provided for electrical equipment has been developed by the European Committee for Electrotechnical Standardization (CENELEC), these standards are designed to numerically rate an electrical product on the level of protection its afforded. By assigning different number codes, the product's degree of protection can be identified quickly and easily. In the code IP65, for example, IP identifies the standard, the 6describes the level of protection from solid objects, and 5 describes the level of protection from liquids.
IP65 and IP54 are the most commonly used in the manufacture of electrical products for use in industry. An IP65 rated product will be fully protected against dust and airborne particles whilst also be protected against water jets which would allow the machine to be washed down, while an IP54 rating offers dust protection (but not total) and protects against splashing of water but not wash-down. IP ratings do go higher than IP65 (IP68 would provide complete dust and underwater protection) but they are rare and excessive for the majority of industrial applications.
Many industrial computers are built to IP65 standard but unfortunately this can have major drawbacks when it comes to repairs and upgrades of the units. To have qualified for IP65 the industrial computer would have had to be sealed so as to prevent dust and water from invading the sensitive components. Unfortunately this means if the computer has to be repaired or upgraded then an engineer would need to be called.
Intrinsically sealed IP65 or IP54 industrial computers are also highly expensive. They are often solid state which although means they are rugged and reliable also means they are near-to-impossible to upgrade.
Fortunately a solution to expensive IP rated specific machines is to house a standard computer or other electrical device in an IP65 or IP54 rated industrial enclosure.
These industrial cabinets have a huge advantage over specifically designed IP rated equipment in that they can house conventional equipment. This provides a double cost saving in that the standard equipment such as an off-the-shelf PC will cost a fraction of the cost of the solid-state IP rated industrial computer. Also when it comes to upgrade, repairs or replacement the same enclosure can be used and the equipment taken out without the need of a costly engineer.
Furthermore, an Industrial enclosure manufactured to IP65 or IP54 will last a lot longer than a specific IP rated piece of equipment with some enclosures able to survive and offer compete dust and water protection for decades while a conventional industrial machine will be lucky to last even four or five years.
12.2.12
Building a Custom Subwoofer Enclosure - What to Know
Custom subwoofer enclosures are for when you want to put some subwoofers into your car but don't want to run stock boxes. By a stock box, I mean one that either comes with your subwoofer or simply one where you can only fit one 12" sub.
If you buy two 12" subs, or perhaps two 10" subs for instance, you'll likely either have to build your own box or get someone to build you one. It's important to remember every subwoofer has an "optimal" subwoofer box size in order to maximize clarity and sound performance. You can check the manufacturer's website of your subwoofer to see what this optimal size is.
You can also skip building the whole optimal performance box in exchange for simply something that will fit into your trunk, but it won't sound as good as if you built one to the specs on the manufacturer's website.
e holes for where the subwoofers go and drill a terminal plate int
Another thing to keep in mind when building your box is to keep all edges perfectly straight. Try to use vice grips to hold the pieces in place before and after gluing, and be sure to place scrues evenly across the construction.
Use a router to machine tho the back to run the subwoofers out the back.
Even if you haven't done the greatest job on your subwoofer box, the MDF wood required to build isn't that expensive. You can always try another one, or use the one you just created. The first few boxes we created here at EuroEnclosures weren't that great either, but you can always tune your deck for less bass output if your box rattles a bit on higher DB output levels.
However, should you want to build the "optimal" box for your subwoofers, be sure to check the manufacturer website of your subwoofers before building.
8.2.12
JL Audio TW5 13" Shallow Mount
6.2.12
Amazing Transforming Motorcycle, Transformer - PandoraSubwooferBox.com
30.1.12
RAM Designs: JL W3V3 10" Bandpass Sub Box Design
26.1.12
sub box software
24.1.12
Bazooka BT1224DVC
22.1.12
Q Logic/ Suburban 10" subwoofer enclosure prep
17.1.12
Subwoofer Sub Box Making Part1
7.1.12
Building the Best Subwoofer Speaker Box Enclosure For Your Car Or SUV
Box Building
Each type of sub requires it's own type of box. If a sub is installed in a box larger or smaller than what is supposed to, it will sound distorted/bad and could be destroyed. Boxes can be built in many shapes, but it is important that the box volume is calculated accurately to achieve maximum performance.
Materials
A box MUST be very sturdy. Most common building materials are 5/8" or thicker particle board or medium density fiberboard. If building a box with Plexiglas, do not use anything less that 1/2 inch thick. A common material used to mold complex shaped boxes is fiberglass, but it is very hard to work with, and require several layers for a smooth finish.
Gluing, Sealing
Glue should be used at all joints to fill any spaces. Any spaces will degrade the performance of your subs, not to mention the annoying noise air makes when being pushed out of a small hole. On applying the glue, let it cure for at least 24 hours before mounting the subs. This is a precautionary measure to protect the rubbers used to make the subs from the high fumes that some manufacturers glue products have.
Holding Joints Together
In connecting box joints, it is best to screw the joints every four inches or so using 2" - 2-1/2" screws. Pre-drill about 3/4" deep, so that screws do not split the wood at the edges, especially when working with particle/dashboard.
Should I have a Box for Each Sub?
It is advised to have a separate chamber for each sub. Even though not necessary, here are two reasons why such a directive should be taken: First, if one of the subs blows, then the volume of the box will be "twice" as big for the one remaining working sub. This could cause problems and even damage the other sub. The second reason is bracing. Building a box with a divider in the middle will make the box more rigid.
Ports
Ports must be built into your box design to channel out the air made by the sub's vibrations. If a pre-made port is not available, the most common material is PVC. PVC is very rigid, comes in different diameters. Cut the tubing at the desired length. Consider the volume the port takes up when calculating the box volume. Cut a hole in the box. Make sure the hole is as perfect as possible to minimize gaps between the box and the tube. A couple wood braces can be added for screwing the port top the box. Seal the gaps using a proper sealant (Evo Stick or even silicone can be used).
Bracing
Boxes that are more than a foot in width or length or height, should be braced so that the box becomes more sturdy. This can be accomplished with a piece of wood maybe 3 or 4 inches wide across the box). It is a good idea to put wood blocks on the corners for reinforcement. Always consider that blocks, braces, neon lights, etc. inside a box take up space and should be accounted for when calculating internal volume.
Damping/Filling
Damping increases subwoofer efficiency by dissipating some energy that affects the sub, particularly the voice coil. It is advisable to put damping material inside a box. Pillow polyfill and fiberglass insulation are common, though polyfill is a lot easier on your skin. Polyfill also "tricks" a sub into thinking it is in a bigger box. Play around with different amounts of polyfill until you get the desired results.
Making it look professional
Make the box surface free from holes and spaces by adding wood fill. If you decide to paint the box, then you should apply primer first. Carpet or Vinyl padding is the best covering to use since they easily cover any outer blemishes on the box and give the box a 'smooth' outlook. Be careful when cutting the vinyl or carpet since such cutters tend to be very sharp. Cut a piece of carpet (or vinyl) big enough to cover the whole box. Apply adhesive to both box and carpet (EvoStick works great). Wait about a minute and place the fabric over the wood. For the best fit, stretch the fabric when applying it. The fabric should wrap around and end in a place of the box that will not be seen. Do one side at a time, cutting excess carpet. If possible, add staples preferably heavy duty staples that can penetrate the box, to hold the fabric at the ends. NOTE: Do not cover each panel of the box before mounting it together since it would be impossible to find any 'leaks' that may exist in the box design much less fill these leaks.
5.1.12
Check Out Infinity Reference 8-Inch 1000-watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Single Voice Coil) for $56.61 Infinity
Infinity Reference 8-Inch 1000-watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Single Voice Coil) Review
Technical Details
- 8-inch single voice coil subwoofer with 1000 Watts peak power handling
- High-efficiency polypropylene woofer cone with large-roll rubber surrounds ensure efficient, clean bass
- Vented polepieces provides additional cooling to increase power handling
- Modest mounting depth allows for use in most ported, sealed and bandpass sub enclosures
- One-year warranty
Infinity Reference 8-Inch 1000-watt High-Performance Subwoofer (Single Voice Coil) Overview
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3.1.12
Acoustic Enclosures
Acoustic Enclosures are specialist structures that are used in industries for noise control. They are essentially a sound proof box (room) they can be constructed near enough anywhere and are an enclosed space in which sound made inside this space is reduced to everything outside of this enclosure.
Large Metal ones are often used in factories and enclose large loud generators. These generators out put an extreme amount on noise and can make the environment completely unworkable. The Acoustic Enclosure will eliminate up to about 90% of this noise, some structures are completely soundproof but can be very costly.
Some of the features of these industrial Enclosures are as follows:
- Ones designed for use in external sites (outside) are weatherproof.
- The panel thickness is specifically calculated for the purpose it is manufactured.
- Double glazed and single glazed windows are available as viewing panels.
- Double lead and single doors are available for access.
- Optional Pipework and ductwork entry points.
- Natural or Forced Air ventilation systems are available in Industrial Acoustic Enclosures.
- Lighting is available, this can be very important for enclosures that you need to enter as depending on its surrounding environment it could be pitch black inside.
- General electrics can be included for the likes of heating.
There are many different finishes that you can have:
- Powder coated finishes are available.
- Paint finishes in any desired colour.
- Plastisol Coated Steel finish.
- Galvanised Stainless Steel self colour.