28.6.11

Best Scosche SEV10CC 10-Inch Slot Ported Single Subwoofer Enclosure (Grey/Black) for Too low to display Scosche

Scosche SEV10CC 10-Inch Slot Ported Single Subwoofer Enclosure (Grey/Black) Review





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Technical Details

  • ¾" Medium density fiberboard front baffle and recessed side panels for easy lifting
  • 100% Sealed joints with pre-cut 9" diameter hole
  • Nickel plated spring loaded speaker terminals
  • Pre-wired with fast-on terminals with poly fiber lining damper
  • 1.25 cu. ft. internal volume





Scosche SEV10CC 10-Inch Slot Ported Single Subwoofer Enclosure (Grey/Black) Overview


Scosche enclosures are CARB Compliant and constructed of 3/4" MDF with a poly fiber damper lining, and nickel plated spring terminals. All boxes are carpeted with a standard Grey/Black trunk liner for maximum durability and come plastic wrapped with color packaging cards to repel dusts and dirt.

25.6.11

Eclipse 8808 Subwoofer

Fun enclosure, sub not even bolted down.

22.6.11

5 Essential 'Must Do's' When Building a Subwoofer Enclosure

Adding a subwoofer to your system is in no way easy, especially if choosing to build a subwoofer enclosure. If you intend to build an enclosure, you will need some essential facts and information before you build it, otherwise something may go wrong, and you could end up wasting your materials.

Must Do 1: Find out what design and size is best for your subwoofer. The wrong design or size could affect the performance of the subwoofer in your car, making your system worse rather than better. The manual should tell you the free amount of air space between woofer and enclosure needed, whilst a simple equation where you find the EBO (efficiency bandwidth products) can help find the best type of design. Alternatively, the manual or a car audio expert may have suggestions on design.

Must Do 2: Decide upon how many enclosures you may need. Although it is not necessary to create two separate enclosures, it practically works better. A sub enclosure can also be separated down the middle in two, so that one sturdy box fits two subs in. If no divider is there though, and one subwoofer malfunctions, it will leave double the amount space needed for the other sub, which will affect the performance of your system. Separating the subs, whether by separate enclosures or a divider (known as twin enclosures), will prevent this from happening. If you have one sub alone, this makes the decision far easier as you will have only one enclosure to build.

Must Do 3: Think long and hard about the materials you are going to use in your enclosure. The enclosure is required to be a hard rigid structure, so that the subwoofer is safely in place and can do its job correctly. Without a rigid structure, the sub can easily be damaged and will not perform as it should. Therefore, the material used needs to be strong and firm, for example, wood, MDF, fibreboard, thick particle board or thick Plexiglas are all used regularly in enclosure structures. Another choice is mould the enclosure into a shape using fiberglass. However, this is time consuming due to the many layers needed.

Must Do 4: After thinking about the material, consider how you are going to make sure it is a fixed and firm structure? Adding braces and strengthening weak points, such as the corners will help keep together your structure. Complete a design on how you are going to strengthen your structure beforehand and remember that any reinforcement or brace will take up air space, which means you'll need to expand the interior space in the enclosure design in accordance with the space lost to the brace.

Must Do 5: When using nails and drills always be careful. You don't want to unnecessarily drill holes or break the structure via screws. The joints are a particular area, which can be easily damaged by screws. Avoid potential damage by distancing your screws out with equal spaces and drilling over half way prior to the screws being placed in, as this will stop the wood from breaking.

19.6.11

Check Out PowerBass PS-WB12 12-Inch Loaded Bass Enclosure Woofer (Pair) for $300.00 PowerBass USA

PowerBass PS-WB12 12-Inch Loaded Bass Enclosure Woofer (Pair) Review





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Technical Details

  • Aviation grade vinyl coated enclosure with two 12-Inch woofers
  • 1,100 watts peak handling power 4-Ohm system impedance
  • Woofer features DDC treated cone
  • Venturi flared port tubes for exact tuning and zero port noise
  • Bass Reflex design for increased efficiency at low frequencies





PowerBass PS-WB12 12-Inch Loaded Bass Enclosure Woofer (Pair) Overview


PowerBass has the loaded enclosure for you with its PS-WB12 Dual 12-Inch woofers in a factory tuned heavy-duty box design, which is constructed from non-resident 5/8-Inch panels finished in a stylish two tone RFG aviation grade vinyl covering, which compliments most cargo spaces. Utilizing a Bass Reflex design offers increased efficiency at low frequencies by using a pair of flared Venturi port tubes for exact tuning and virtually zero port noise resulting in clean tight bass. The cone of 2-layer black ribbed paper with DDC (Dynamic Damping Coating) finish has everything to do with the difference between good and great sound to give your music uncompromised fidelity. The BASV high temperature specially designed resin coated voice coils measure a full 2 inches in diameter to ensure high power handling and precise linear excursion while maximizing thermal heat dissipation. Both woofers are internally wired in-phase resulting in the need for just a single 4-Ohm spring loaded speaker input. PowerBass's computer optimized acoustic chamber is perfectly tuned for the car environment and for a tight and accurate bass response. Featuring 1,100 watts peak power handling (550w RMS), 2 - 12-Inch woofers, Bass Reflex system type and 4-Ohm nominal impedance.

17.6.11

Three 15" Rockford Fosgate T2s Flexing In A Ported Enclosure

Three 15" T2 in a ported enclosure tuned to the low 30's. He's playing "Standing Ovation" by Young Jeezy and "Ridin Rims" by Franchize Boys.

15.6.11

Cheap Synergy Series SS212/SS1600.1 Dual 12" Sub Box 1600 Watt Monoblock Amp for $198.88 Synergy

Synergy Series SS212/SS1600.1 Dual 12" Sub Box 1600 Watt Monoblock Amp Review





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Technical Details

  • Synergy Series SS212/SS1600.1 Dual 12" Sub Box 1600 Watt Monoblock Amp
  • Enclosure: 500 Watts RMS to 1000 Watts Power Handling
  • Amplifier: 800 Watt RMS to 1600 Watts Peak Output Power (800W RMS x 1CH @ 2 Ohm / 400W RMS x 1CH @ 4 Ohm)
  • Enclosure: Polypropylene Cones with triple treated surrounds, 1" Piezo tweeter, and 3.5" midrange/Amp: LP crossover, Bass Boost (bass knob included)
  • Full 1 Year Warranty





Synergy Series SS212/SS1600.1 Dual 12" Sub Box 1600 Watt Monoblock Amp Overview


This Synergy Series bass package by MA Audio retails for 9.99 plus tax. This system includes: a 1000 watt dual 12" sub enclosures and a 1600 watt mono amplifier. The digitally tuned enclosure comes pre-loaded with two Synergy Series 12" subs featuring aluminum finished polypropylene cones, triple treated surrounds, and 1" wide dispersion piezo horn tweeters. The Synergy Series MOSFET mono amp's fine-tuned audio controls, extreme durability, and proprietary technologies deliver stronger, more reliable performance than most amplifiers on the market today. Simply wire both subs in parallel to achieve 800 watts RMS at a 2 ohm load with the gain set low so you can be sure not to overpower the subs. Other features include: blue LED lighting, variable LP crossover, gain control, power/protection LEDs, 0-12dB bass boost (remote bass knob included), and a 20-50Hz subsonic filter. Complete with a full 1 year warranty and our exclusive 30 day money back guarantee.

13.6.11

Home Theater Speakers - How to Choose the Right Speaker For Your Room

It can be very confusing when you want to buy a new set of speakers for your room.

There seem to be so many choices to make that it can be difficult to know where to start. So here is a list of things to think about when you want to buy new speakers for your home theater system.

1. What type of speaker configuration do you want?


  • 2.0 stereo system

  • 2.1 stereo system with a subwoofer

  • 5.1 surround sound system

  • 7.1 surround sound system

  • 7.2 surround sound system with two subwoofers


2. What size of speaker do you want?


  • Satellite

  • Bookshelf

  • Floor standing

  • In-wall

  • In-ceiling


3. What technical ratings do you need to consider?


  • Power ratings

  • Sensitivity

  • Impedance

  • Match these with the ratings of your amplifier or receiver


4. How do you want to buy your speakers?


  • An all-in-one package with all the speakers included?

  • Buy separates and put together your system one speaker at a time?


5. What make of speakers do you want? Some major brands are:


  • Infinity

  • Klipsch

  • Yamaha

  • B & W

  • Mission

  • Paradigm

  • Kef

Once you have worked you way through this checklist, then you will have a much better idea of the speakers that you you want for your home theater system.

The important thing is to take each point at a time and don't over complicate your choices. You will find it much easier to choose the best speakers for your room when you are clear with what you actually need - or what will best suit your home theater setup.

11.6.11

HDMI - A New Connection Standard For Home Cinema

HDMI is the latest connection type found on all new modern TV's, most modern Home Theatre amplifiers and many computer monitors. But why is it important to buy equipment with HDMI connections, and how much do you need to spend on HDMI cables?

HDMI stands for High Definition Multimedia Interface, and was designed to be a backwards-compatible replacement for the DVI interface commonly found on computer monitors. The standard called for a single cable that could carry a high-definition video stream, up to eight channels of digital audio and a single Consumer Electronics Control Signal. Its primary purpose was to become the standard connection between all consumer AV devices and computer displays. Today, all new projectors and televisions will come with at least one HDMI connection and usually more to receive hi-definition video.

Perhaps the most significant part of the HDMI specification is the support for HDCP, High-bandwidth Digital Copy Protection. HDCP-protected content such as Blu-Ray movies can only be decoded by licensed HDCP players, and any devices that connect to the player, must also be HDCP certified, or the player will only output a standard-definition signal. For this reason, when buying high-definition projectors, televisions or other devices, it's best to make sure they have HDMI connections and are HDCP certified.

Be careful when hooking up your home theatre system. It is not possible to have a HDMI connection to your amplifier, and then a component connection to your projector, as the HDCP protocol will prevent the player from sending a hi-def video signal due to the final connection not being via HDMI. It is possible, however, to connect your blu-ray player or cable box to your TV by HDMI and use a separate connection, such as a digital optical cable, to send audio to your amplifier.

HDMI carries both audio and video. This means only a single cable is required to connect a TV to your Blu-ray player or cable box. If you use a separate Home Theatre amplifier, then the player and cable box can first be connected to the amplifier, which is then connected by another HDMI cable to your TV. In this setup, the amplifier uses the audio channels and passes the video channel on to the TV. If you use the approach, look for a high-quality Home Theatre amplifier, with several HDMI inputs for all your sources, which also support HDCP.

Finally, a few words on buying HDMI cables. The prices of HDMI cables can vary enormously, with certain branded cables costing 10x the price of the same length unbranded cable. In practice, HDMI cable quality has very little impact on the quality of the audio and video transmitted through it. Unlike previous home video cable standards, HDMI is an all-digital connection, so the signals are much more resistant to interference and noise. For short cable lengths, almost any HDMI cable will be fine. Longer lengths can be more susceptible to connection dropouts due to HDCP signal loss, so consider spending a little extra on these, but keep away from the most expensive brands as they offer very little extra benefit.

9.6.11

Car Audio Installation

Car audio installation is a fairly specialized job, requiring at least some knowledge about the basics of car designs and electronics. The final audio output depends to a large extent on good installation. You may buy the best equipment, but if it is not properly installed, then the result will be poor. The entire set up consisting of wires, amplifiers, alternators, and speakers would have to be perfectly set up for that great audio effect.

Speaker location is perhaps the most important part of setting up your car audio. Determining where you are going to place your speakers is the first step you have to take. The designs of cars are such that the listener isn't placed perfectly in middle of the two speakers. What we mean to say is that the distance between the left speaker and the left ear is not the same as the right ear and the right speaker, which is a traditional audio setup. You can easily avoid this problem by making the distance between the left and right as little as possible. Some people try to place an extra speaker on the dashboard. The problem with this is that this speaker on the dashboard rips the sound into two, making for unpleasant hearing. You can try placing the audio in different locations around the car and arrive at the proper configuration for your speakers. Another mistake which commonly occurs is that people tend to go for looks rather than the sound, when it comes to car audio. Try to listen, rather than look. Some unlikely places inside your car may be the best for placing speakers.

Choosing the location of subwoofers and amplifiers is relatively easy. You can place them where you feel they will look good. One thing to keep in mind, though, is that different equipment may interfere with each other, if improperly placed. The next step is the wiring part, which is equally important. The thing with laying cables is to buy the correct cable keeping in view the capacity of the amplifier and speakers. Next in line is the installation of the head unit and amplifiers. Once you install them, you have to select the correct type of speaker enclosure. Although the choice is yours, you can try different types of enclosures and choose one which gives the best audio output. A final fine tuning, preferably with professional help and your car audio installation is done.

6.6.11

Great Price R/T Enterprises for $64.99 R/T 300 Enclosure Series (328-10) - Dual 10" Slot Vented Sub Bass Hatchback Speaker Box with Labyrinth Power Port -MTX

R/T 300 Enclosure Series (328-10) - Dual 10" Slot Vented Sub Bass Hatchback Speaker Box with Labyrinth Power Port -MTX Review





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Technical Details

  • Made in the USA with premium 3/4" MDF
  • 1.10 Cu. Ft. Air Space Per Chamber/Tuning - 44 Hz
  • Easy Hook Up Terminal Cups
  • Automotive Grey Carpeting
  • 32.0" W x 13.5" H x 15.0" D





R/T 300 Enclosure Series (328-10) - Dual 10" Slot Vented Sub Bass Hatchback Speaker Box with Labyrinth Power Port -MTX Overview


The R/T 318/328 enclosure series features our Labyrinth Slot Vent system. This venting system is a form of "porting" on a much higher level than just cutting a hole in a box and dropping in a port tube. The Labyrinth Design increases the amount of bass your woofer produces without needing any additional power from your system. The "MAZE design of the Labyrinth Slot Venting system brings a controlled sound level increase by allowing long, low frequency sound waves to easily escape, while short high frequency waves remain trapped, unable to cause unwanted cancellation and distortion. In turn, this gives you loud clean bass a sealed or basic port design cannot deliver. The 318/328 enclosure series also includes our Quad-Lock joint construction, which is a four step process re-enforcing all box joints with computerized dado'd grooves, ultra strength wood glue, staples, and caulk.

3.6.11

Measuring a Fiberglass Box's Volume - Air Space Doesn't Have To Be Tricky

When working with fiberglass enclosures, I am sure you can tell that the internal volume is not as easy to measure as your regular square enclosure. There are twists turns and dips all through a glass box, so we cannot just take out a tape measure and go at it.

There is actually a pretty easy way of figuring out the internal volume of a box, without using and tape measures. Our weapon of choice in this, will be packing peanuts. The kind you see in packages sent to your house. Those little pieces of foam that help keep the contents of packages from breaking or being damaged in transit. You will want to get a couple bags of these little guys. Enough to fill the enclosure you plan to measure.

When the enclosure is finished, and you want to check the airspace, go ahead and fill the entire box with these peanuts. All the way to the top. If you have to, tape off the speaker mount holes so they don't fall out.

Now you want to get a cardboard box or make a small wooden box that has an internal volume of 6 cubic inches. That would be 6"h X 6"w X 6"d. Those are the internal measurements, not counting the walls of the box. That way if you could freeze the air inside the box and take it out, you would have a 6x6x6 inch cube of frozen air.

Once you have your measuring box, start to remove the peanuts from the fiberglass box, and place them in the measuring box. Fill it to the top. Write down or mark somewhere how many times it takes to fill the measuring box. Say it takes 5 times, then your box's airspace is 2 and ½ cu. ft. Every time you fill it, that represents 6 square inches of airspace.

So, what happens if the box is to big? If a box is to big, it throws off its tuning and can ultimately hurt the subwoofer. In low power systems, this is not much of a threat. In your more expensive high end systems that use a lot of power or need to be tuned just right to the manufacturers specifications, then you cannot have any extra space.

The best way to remedy this, is to introduce something that will displace the extra air inside the box. For an example, we will say your box has 6 cu. in. of extra airspace. In this case, you would take some MDF, and create a very small box that is 6 X 6 X 6. So in essence, it would fit inside your peanut measuring box. You would then find a spot inside the enclosure and glue it down and screw it in.

If your box is made entirely out of fiberglass, you cannot screw the small box down to the box, so we have to use something else. I have used what I call "tuning bags". These tuning bags are simple small bags of sand. You have to be careful when using sand in a box though, the bag has to be sealed VERY well so it does not leak and send sand particles flying around the inside of your box. This can ruin subwoofers very quickly if they leak sand into the box.

You can fill it with dirt from your back yard if you want, it really does not matter what is inside of the bag, as long as it is similar to dirt, sand, flour, salt, sugar, something like that. You simply measure out the required amount to compensate for the extra air inside the box, place it in your bag, seal it, and put it in the box. I usually use heavy duty trash bags, cut some squares, and make a small pouch of sand. Then I tie the top off with some utility wire. I do this about 5 times, making 5 different layers of the bag material over the sand inside to ensure it will not leak into the box. You can even seal the top of the bag material by melting it to itself about and inch over the tie off. You still need to use some kind of tie off on the bag, this just helps to further ensure it will not be leaking out.

However you end up creating these tuning bags, make sure whatever method you use to encase the sand inside is fit and not going to leak out. Make sure the inside of the box does not contain splinters of glass sticking out that can puncture the bag.

Eventually, if you make a lot of these boxes, you will be able to "eyeball" them and pretty much know what the airspace is. This will help also when constructing the boxes, you will be able to make boxes from scratch that are pretty much dead on the airspace you wanted. Just make sure at first, that you shoot for being to big, because to small is a lot harder to remedy then to big.

1.6.11

KILLING Type-R w/ Alpine PDX 1.1000 - Blowing 12" Subwoofer Tinsel Leads Clipping & Ported Box Build

Someone interested in looking at in the Orion Subs! - He came on over, and was so excited to show me his stereo bass system that he ended up blowing up his 12 inch subwoofers wires. www.youtube.com Just Havin' Fun At The End - Lettin' a little more of the "junk bin" into the vids lol -[ :D ] **Enjoy The Music? Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL Tracks - Cultivata & MC Fathom Phantom** ~ EXO Add Me* * * * www.myspace.com Poor guy blew right through a tinsel lead to the voice coil and it was clipping real bad , making a wicked loud noise from over excursion on the sub killing it. I feel bad now that it's broken.... Damn woofers. 2 12 inch Alpine Type R subs. Damn 12's lol - Nice amplifier though. Class D Monoblock Alpine PDX-1.1000 1000 watt rms amp. My First Car Audio SPL Bass Installation (1) Alpine MRP 500 - Class D Monoblock Amplifier (1) Alpine MRP 1000 - Class D Monoblock Amplifier (3) Orion HP 12 @ 2 ohms - Subs (2) Orion Cobalt 5.25's - Highs (2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 farad Capacitors *Same 200 amp H/O Alt* My Current Competition Car Audio Stereo System Pioneer DEH-P6000ub - Head Unit (1) Clarion Eqs746 Graphic EQ - BEST Equalizer (2) Orion Cobalt 5.25's - Highs & Tweeters (2) Polk DB 5x7's - Mid Range Speakers (2) Polk DB 6x9's - Mid Range Speakers (1) DAT Hellfire 2500.1 Class D Mono Amp / Diablo Audio Technologies = 3000 + Watts RMS @ 1 ohm (1) Ascendant Audio Mayhem 18 inch Subwoofer (1) Single Slot Ported Box Tuned To 32 hz @ 6cft (1) MCR 200 amp ...